City Guide: Paris, France
My sister shares her gems from the Left Bank: chocolate mousse, flirty waiters, French brands you can't get in the US, a picnic spot, and the advice her French friends want you to know
Bonjour lovelies! Big day today: a Handpicked guide to Paris (YES PARIS) by my little sister Elizabeth, an actual professional francophile who lives in New York City and is graduating with a masters in French next year.
After many trips to Paris for work, school, and vacation, and years spent living there, Elizabeth has filled pages of notes on special spots in the city. Today, she’s giving us her truly handpicked guide to a charming part of Paris: la Rive Gauche, the Left Bank. C’est la meilleure!
My dears, you cannot find a guide like this anywhere else.
Here’s what she said when I asked why she chose this neighborhood.
“There is so much to do and see and eat in Paris, and I don’t pretend to know (or like!) it all. If your readers only had one day on the Left Bank, they could borrow this whole list and I promise they’d have that Frenchie experience we all dream of.”
Je lui passe la parole! Over to Elizabeth for the rest!
stay at:
Le Grand Hotel Cayré is the #1 hotel I can recommend in this area. Many friends and I have had great experiences staying here. It’s beautiful enough to make you feel like you’re on vacation, but not so luxe that you feel guilty spending the day out and about. Bonus: Le Labo toiletries and two French pharmacies on the block!
eat at:
I suggest starting your day at Gosselin, one of my favorite boulangeries in all of Paris, for a pastry and sandwiches to pack for lunch. The line goes quickly, and the chocolate almond croissant is flawless.
Maison Galland is also very close to the hotel with wonderful croissants. Two other (more famous) spots with terrific breakfast and lunch options nearby: Eric Kayser and Poilâne.
Allard is one of my favorite restaurants; the chef Alain Ducasse is legendary and I find the cozy interior is as delightful as the entrées. There are options for folks interested in authentic French flavors, as well as classic bistro dishes.
For a quicker meal: Crêperies des Arts is my favorite! You can take galettes or crêpes to-go at the window; the French do NOT eat while walking, but you can have them on the sidewalk in front, or find a bench on the Seine! If you sit down, it’ll take about an hour, if you get a savory for the main and sweet for the dessert. I love the very classic Breton-style “complète” galette which has egg, cheese, and ham on top of a buckwheat flour crêpe, and a Nutella or caramel crêpe for dessert.
La Calèche is a beautiful, classic little spot. In January a friend and I sat in the window for dinner after a trip to Musée D’Orsay during extended hours (9pm on Thursdays). We had a flirty waiter, linen napkins, lovely soup.
Chocolat Chapon is a teeny, delightful shop that sells cones of chocolate mousse. Be forewarned: they are rich, I recommend sharing one between at least two people!
shop at:
Alix de Reynis. Truly fabulous ceramics shop, they have plenty of small items you could tuck into a pair of socks and pack home in a carry-on (speaking from experience!). The staff is wonderful, the interior is gorgeous, and don’t miss the jewelry selection in the side room.
What I would call the J. Crew of France: Cyrillus. (Don’t tell Olympia, but I think their quality is better than J. Crew’s!) This is where French women get the simple blouse or timeless trousers they wear with such ease; Cyrillus has Liberty prints and classic silhouettes, plus a great men’s and children’s selection. TBH, I think their summer and fall collections > winter or spring. When I lived in France, I was addicted to shopping here, including for my nieces and nephews.
Maria de la Orden. Gorgeous knits and incredible shirts and dresses. This is a very fun, very European stop. I only regret the things I don’t buy here.
Le Bon Marché. Marvelous department store in the heart of the neighborhood, I’m sure you’ve heard of it. You could spend an hour here (though I often spend several) depending on what you’re looking for! They have many recognizable French brands, but I recommend classic pieces from old-guard brands: I buy shirts from Figaret on the second floor and leather sneakers from Autry on the third floor.
In the neighborhood you’ll also find the outlets for French brands APC and Soeur, with great selections! I love Comptoir des Cotonniers, Claudie Pierlot, and Monoprix’s clothing section for French brands you can’t find in the US.
Sabre. Kitchen items with the real French touch; a serving spoon or pie server with a colorful handle is the perfect souvenir/ gift. GREAT stop.
The one viral suggestion I will include: Kujten. In the chilly months you can’t walk one block without seeing a French woman in a Kujten scarf! They are a French company and their knits are truly incredible; this is a special splurge item that I recommend to everyone (their signature cashmere bandanas are 90 euros as opposed to $170, if that is any solace!)
look at:
Important: This neighborhood is FULL of art galleries, interior decor retailers, and antique shops. Walk slowly! If you’re looking to take home a small piece of art, I recommend Galerie Maeght for prints, or the galleries on Rue Jacob.
Musée Rodin is famously one of the most beautiful places in Paris! Go here for the sculptures on the top floor; the stunning 18th century building’s architecture feels inspiring and French in the best way. It is especially beautiful in the spring and summer because the grounds and gardens are so pleasant to walk through.
Musée D’Orsay is a classic for a reason: I especially love it for its collection of Gustave Caillebotte. Get your tickets in advance so you don’t have to wait in line! (This is my favorite museum in Paris. And I don’t think the Louvre minds! –Alex)
Deyrolle is a fascinating shop with hundreds of preserved animals, gardening supplies, and art. Photos aren’t allowed so just trust me when I say you should stop in! (I am DYING to see this place. –Alex)
The Seine: at dawn, at sunset, at any moment of the day! I really suggest taking a moment to rest your legs and do some people- and boat-watching along the famous river. She’s iconic for a reason!
Le Jardin de Luxembourg is a spectacular park, germane to the Left Bank. It is a great option for a midday snack or sunset rest (most restaurants’ dinner reservations become available starting at 7pm). You can relax on one of the signature green chairs and watch the Parisians come and go.
petites astuces — some things to remember:
Do yourself a favor and look up the hours of EVERY stop you want to make in France. Many shops are closed Mondays, many restaurants close between lunch and dinner services, many museums have early or late openings… need I go on?
Every time you walk into an establishment, you need to make eye contact with the proprietor and say “Bonjour!” or “Bonsoir!” if the sun has set. This is an important French custom; I would go so far as to say that not doing this would be the equivalent of not thanking/ acknowledging the cashier when checking out at an American grocery store.
If you don’t speak any French, learn a phrase or two, like “Pardon, j’ai une question à vous poser” (Excuse me, I have a question) or “Excusez-moi, pourriez-vous m’aider en anglais?” (Excuse me, could you please help me with something in English?) to introduce the language barrier and express your need for assistance.
My best tip: Plan to picnic! If there’s a sunny forecast and you encounter more pastries than you can eat in one sitting, bring them to a park or the bank of the Seine and enjoy a break from walking. It’s a cheap and extremely enjoyable way to experience some Parisian food and atmosphere at the same time.
The thing my French friends and I never stop talking about: the French are trying to be respectful when they speak to you in English. If the waiter or museum staff speak to you in English after you attempt to speak in French, they’re not snubbing you: they want to be hospitable and adapt to visitors’ needs. If you are interested in practicing your French skills, just keep speaking French and smile!
I’ll leave you with instructions to enjoy my favorite pastime in Paris: savor the fresh bread and salted butter. From the tree-lined boulevards to the effortless outfits, it really is the simple but refined delights that make Paris so special. Bon voyage!
Merci ma chère sœur Lizzy! Do you have any questions for Elizabeth about visiting the Left Bank? Any other tips for traveling in Paris you’d like to ask, or share with us? We would love to hear:
Saving this for my next trip! Love Elizabeth!
If there is one person I would trust with a guide to Paris!! So lovely!